Thursday, 18 February 2016

Pune to Aurangabad Day1: Ellora caves and Ghrishneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple



So it’s been around 3 weeks since my last post and I was again drowning into a state of procrastination. Everyday plans to do it only to postpone it for next day in evening. Apart from sharing the travel experiences, one of the main reasons of starting this blog has been to practice self-discipline. If I aim to finish a post today, I must be able to. If reason is technical or is a genuine one that is acceptable, but delaying the work just like that and continuously fretting about not being able to start, everyday plans for the same thing was something what I wanted to get rid of. Anyways whatever it was, human being is never perfect and more often we found ourselves struggling with the petty issues which are bothering us since our childhood. Procrastination is one of them. I guess even after a bit of dilly dallying, if one is able to manage to get back to track, if one thrives to do better than last time that is it. Perseverance is the only thing to be called for. Though off course you can never get the wasted time back. 

Anyways, let’s go back to the Aurangabad. We have found the hotel and this time we were clever enough to book it in advance to avoid any unnecessary headache. Hotel receptionist took good 45 min to finally handover the keys. He was a mid-aged man and certainly was not even average in managing the stuff. We were giving our IDs and all when one couple came to check out and he immediately left us in between and started doing their processing and finish them off in next 10 mins. As soon as the couple left for the parking, they were summoned back for some missing step. We waited among all this. Every time we requested him to hurry up, he told us as it was 1st of Jan, most of the staff was absent and even those present were hardly in any mood of work. So after some 45-50 mins we got the keys and that too some cleaning work was still needs to be done. Finally after some freshen up, we managed to leave the hotel at 1:00 PM. Next target was Ellora caves. We were almost 1 hr late as per plan. As all my research in Google suggested to set aside a good time for Ellora caves else you would be regretting it and because I have heard so much of these caves that I don’t want to make it just a point-covered spot, I was thinking of having a half of the day for it, but there we were 1 hr late with empty stomach.

From Aurangabad city to Ellora caves is some 30 KMs distance. Don’t expect any good restaurant in this 30 KM stretch. It would have been good if we had taken lunch in hotel vicinity only. In mid-way we stopped at an eatery and it was the only bad experience of the whole trip. As soon as we parked the car, we noticed of being the only customer. Place was a simple one with a hall and simple table chairs spread across it. Anyways as we get in, one person came to attend and took order. We asked what can be served in minimal time and after asking this and that we ordered 2 curries and Tandoori roti. To which he replied because Tandoor was not yet prepared (and he too gave the excuse of being the 1st Jan and most of the boys were not there and that was why everything was dull in there)  it might take some time and we could opt for simple Tava roti. So the order was done. And there began the endless wait. Kitchen was very much visible from where we were. And cook shut the door as a response to our continuous effort of peeing into kitchen.

Food there was a lousy experience. After much wait when it arrived, Tava roti’s condition was something to be seen of. I asked if it was prepared some time before and waiter promptly replied “Garam hai madam, choo k dekh lijiye” and in a state of confusion we ate the first roti but was very sure it was of morning or worst of previous night and it made sense why he was emphasizing on ordering Tava roti. New order for Tandoori roti and a paneer curry (which came out to be only curry with 3-4 pieces of Paneer) was placed. We somehow eat whatever it was and left from there.
By the time we reached Ellora caves it was almost 2:15 PM. Entry pass was 10/- each. Now some points to remember while going in Ellora caves. First of all at least reserve 4-5 hrs for it alone. Caves are spread in huge area (1.5-2 KM). So you have to walk and it will take time. Wear flat footwear. Bring along some fruits/biscuits/chips and water bottle. Camera battery should be full and memory card should be empty. It is better enjoyed if you visit some caves then rest and eat and then visit some and so on. As we were tight on time, we were avoiding resting and eating time.

Ellora caves are basically categorized as Hindu caves, Buddhist caves and Jain caves. Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist; Caves 13 to 29 are Hindu ones and Caves 30 to 34 are Jain caves. Now the first cave just in front of the main gate is cave no 16 which hosts the famous Kailasa temple. On the right side of this cave will come the cave 15 till cave 1.
 


Kailasa temple is considered to be the world’s oldest single rock carved, multi-story temple complex. It is also supposed to be carved upside down. It is said west archaeologists were stunned by the structure and by the fact that it is double the size of Parthenon in Athens. After being closely monitored, several experts also found that initially the temple was entirely covered with white plaster to depict the snow of Mount Kailash. (Source: http://haribhakt.com/stunning-facts-about-mysterious-kailash-temple-of-ellora/)

Be prepared to be completely awestruck by the level of details ancient people have managed to carve. Inside is a big Shivling which is the main temple room and in one corridor there is huge Shiv idol. You will get confused whether to see it and capture in your eyes or capture in your lens or simply admire the work. And this is not just about the Kailasa temple. Each and every cave will leave you mesmerized and you will feel a kind of spell is done on you. 


















There are caves where Buddha Idols are carved in an entire wall and you will be amazed by the degree of homogeneity in every structure. Every idol is of same size, same width, same depth, same eyes, and same hands. I mean for a generation of ours, it is simply amazing to see this uniformity and to see how there would be people who were doing this only work with highest precision their entire life. And off course they must be doing it for generations. Most of us cannot even draw 2 similar circle even in paper in one go, and there were an entire wall filled with sculpture with highest possible consistency.  And not to forget they did it with as basic a tool as chisel and hammer.



















Then there were caves where a tree was carved with small leaves. Some of the caves there are famous for paintings done inside them, which are not in very good condition but you can get a glimpse of. Cave 30-34 are at the far left area and if you have time you can walk till there. Otherwise, there are busses standing in front of cave 16. They will take to and fro fare and will drop you at caves. After visiting you can board next bus standing right after caves to return.













By 6:00 PM we were done with caves and Grishneshwar Jyotirling is merely 1 KM from there. Grishneshwar Jyotirling is believed to be the last Jyotirling among 12 Jyotirlings. This was my 3rd jyotirling visit. Earlier 2 were Srisailam (Andhra pradesh) and Bhimashankar (Maharashtra). Maharashtra has 2 more Jyotirlings in it’s account - Aundha Nagnath Temple and Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple.

You cannot take mobile or camera in temple premises, so better leave them behind. Also once you get near to main temple room, they will ask male visitors to take off the upper garment.  It was not a long queue and in next 45 mins we were done with darshan. Once out, there are many snacks center in the nearby area with proper sitting arrangements. We quickly took tea and aloo bhajji and left for the hotel. It was full dark when we started and there was around 10 KM stretch in ghat, so pretty dangerous. Reached hotel by 8:15 PM

Happy Ghumakkadi :)

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