Thursday, 18 February 2016

Pune to Aurangabad Day1: Ellora caves and Ghrishneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple



So it’s been around 3 weeks since my last post and I was again drowning into a state of procrastination. Everyday plans to do it only to postpone it for next day in evening. Apart from sharing the travel experiences, one of the main reasons of starting this blog has been to practice self-discipline. If I aim to finish a post today, I must be able to. If reason is technical or is a genuine one that is acceptable, but delaying the work just like that and continuously fretting about not being able to start, everyday plans for the same thing was something what I wanted to get rid of. Anyways whatever it was, human being is never perfect and more often we found ourselves struggling with the petty issues which are bothering us since our childhood. Procrastination is one of them. I guess even after a bit of dilly dallying, if one is able to manage to get back to track, if one thrives to do better than last time that is it. Perseverance is the only thing to be called for. Though off course you can never get the wasted time back. 

Anyways, let’s go back to the Aurangabad. We have found the hotel and this time we were clever enough to book it in advance to avoid any unnecessary headache. Hotel receptionist took good 45 min to finally handover the keys. He was a mid-aged man and certainly was not even average in managing the stuff. We were giving our IDs and all when one couple came to check out and he immediately left us in between and started doing their processing and finish them off in next 10 mins. As soon as the couple left for the parking, they were summoned back for some missing step. We waited among all this. Every time we requested him to hurry up, he told us as it was 1st of Jan, most of the staff was absent and even those present were hardly in any mood of work. So after some 45-50 mins we got the keys and that too some cleaning work was still needs to be done. Finally after some freshen up, we managed to leave the hotel at 1:00 PM. Next target was Ellora caves. We were almost 1 hr late as per plan. As all my research in Google suggested to set aside a good time for Ellora caves else you would be regretting it and because I have heard so much of these caves that I don’t want to make it just a point-covered spot, I was thinking of having a half of the day for it, but there we were 1 hr late with empty stomach.

From Aurangabad city to Ellora caves is some 30 KMs distance. Don’t expect any good restaurant in this 30 KM stretch. It would have been good if we had taken lunch in hotel vicinity only. In mid-way we stopped at an eatery and it was the only bad experience of the whole trip. As soon as we parked the car, we noticed of being the only customer. Place was a simple one with a hall and simple table chairs spread across it. Anyways as we get in, one person came to attend and took order. We asked what can be served in minimal time and after asking this and that we ordered 2 curries and Tandoori roti. To which he replied because Tandoor was not yet prepared (and he too gave the excuse of being the 1st Jan and most of the boys were not there and that was why everything was dull in there)  it might take some time and we could opt for simple Tava roti. So the order was done. And there began the endless wait. Kitchen was very much visible from where we were. And cook shut the door as a response to our continuous effort of peeing into kitchen.

Food there was a lousy experience. After much wait when it arrived, Tava roti’s condition was something to be seen of. I asked if it was prepared some time before and waiter promptly replied “Garam hai madam, choo k dekh lijiye” and in a state of confusion we ate the first roti but was very sure it was of morning or worst of previous night and it made sense why he was emphasizing on ordering Tava roti. New order for Tandoori roti and a paneer curry (which came out to be only curry with 3-4 pieces of Paneer) was placed. We somehow eat whatever it was and left from there.
By the time we reached Ellora caves it was almost 2:15 PM. Entry pass was 10/- each. Now some points to remember while going in Ellora caves. First of all at least reserve 4-5 hrs for it alone. Caves are spread in huge area (1.5-2 KM). So you have to walk and it will take time. Wear flat footwear. Bring along some fruits/biscuits/chips and water bottle. Camera battery should be full and memory card should be empty. It is better enjoyed if you visit some caves then rest and eat and then visit some and so on. As we were tight on time, we were avoiding resting and eating time.

Ellora caves are basically categorized as Hindu caves, Buddhist caves and Jain caves. Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist; Caves 13 to 29 are Hindu ones and Caves 30 to 34 are Jain caves. Now the first cave just in front of the main gate is cave no 16 which hosts the famous Kailasa temple. On the right side of this cave will come the cave 15 till cave 1.
 


Kailasa temple is considered to be the world’s oldest single rock carved, multi-story temple complex. It is also supposed to be carved upside down. It is said west archaeologists were stunned by the structure and by the fact that it is double the size of Parthenon in Athens. After being closely monitored, several experts also found that initially the temple was entirely covered with white plaster to depict the snow of Mount Kailash. (Source: http://haribhakt.com/stunning-facts-about-mysterious-kailash-temple-of-ellora/)

Be prepared to be completely awestruck by the level of details ancient people have managed to carve. Inside is a big Shivling which is the main temple room and in one corridor there is huge Shiv idol. You will get confused whether to see it and capture in your eyes or capture in your lens or simply admire the work. And this is not just about the Kailasa temple. Each and every cave will leave you mesmerized and you will feel a kind of spell is done on you. 


















There are caves where Buddha Idols are carved in an entire wall and you will be amazed by the degree of homogeneity in every structure. Every idol is of same size, same width, same depth, same eyes, and same hands. I mean for a generation of ours, it is simply amazing to see this uniformity and to see how there would be people who were doing this only work with highest precision their entire life. And off course they must be doing it for generations. Most of us cannot even draw 2 similar circle even in paper in one go, and there were an entire wall filled with sculpture with highest possible consistency.  And not to forget they did it with as basic a tool as chisel and hammer.



















Then there were caves where a tree was carved with small leaves. Some of the caves there are famous for paintings done inside them, which are not in very good condition but you can get a glimpse of. Cave 30-34 are at the far left area and if you have time you can walk till there. Otherwise, there are busses standing in front of cave 16. They will take to and fro fare and will drop you at caves. After visiting you can board next bus standing right after caves to return.













By 6:00 PM we were done with caves and Grishneshwar Jyotirling is merely 1 KM from there. Grishneshwar Jyotirling is believed to be the last Jyotirling among 12 Jyotirlings. This was my 3rd jyotirling visit. Earlier 2 were Srisailam (Andhra pradesh) and Bhimashankar (Maharashtra). Maharashtra has 2 more Jyotirlings in it’s account - Aundha Nagnath Temple and Trimbakeshwar Shiva Temple.

You cannot take mobile or camera in temple premises, so better leave them behind. Also once you get near to main temple room, they will ask male visitors to take off the upper garment.  It was not a long queue and in next 45 mins we were done with darshan. Once out, there are many snacks center in the nearby area with proper sitting arrangements. We quickly took tea and aloo bhajji and left for the hotel. It was full dark when we started and there was around 10 KM stretch in ghat, so pretty dangerous. Reached hotel by 8:15 PM

Happy Ghumakkadi :)

Thursday, 21 January 2016

Pune to Aurangabad Day1: Bibi ka Maqbara

Back-to-back is a phrase, considered best suited to people in their early twenties. They may still be in college or fresh out of college, full of energy and zeal, on the verge of doing everything which pops up in one’s mind and most importantly every friend of the group will still be bachelor hence no excuses of ‘Let me ask’ or ‘Bhai batata hoon’. But I guess as with everything else from average human lifespan to average marrying age, this back-to-back-phrase-using-age is also growing and has bitten to people in their early thirties also.

Few days back we saw 6 movies back to back in a weekend.  All day we were eating and seeing movie while other one was on download. So when it comes to travelling back to back, the only thing, I have sensed till now, I don’t get bored easily of, you know I was feeling like being in early twenties again (though when I actually was, I never did anything which can remotely be termed as crazy). 2nd thing, it was new year and what a better way to start a new year other than travelling. 3rd thing, 1st Jan (Friday) being leave, it was a long weekend also.

So even before the dust from last trip was off our cloths and even before the photos were exchanged, by Wednesday the coming weekend was booked with the same group of friends.
If last time it was sand, beaches, fort, sunset and all, this time it was going to be a visit to the world heritage site (Ajanta Ellora caves in Aurangabad ) which will end with a religious note (Shirdi and Shanisignapur).

Lesson learnt from last trip to Ratnagiri was, book your hotel beforehand else be ready to waste your time, energy, money and end up sharing the room. My husband seemed to be taken it very seriously and booked room in Aurangabad for day 1 even without telling me (and I cannot be more thank full to him as the deal we got gave me another reason to travel without taking worry of hotel bills). Also this time we were determined to leave as early as possible to avoid the day time city chaos and also to make most of our day 1.

Our day 1 itinerary looked like: reach Aurangabad by 10:00 AM, check in hotel, lunch, Bibi ka Maqbara and Ellora caves. Ellora caves being the major attraction, half of the day was set aside for it. Bibi ka maqbara was 2nd option depending upon the time.

We left home by 5:10 AM, already 40 mins late. Pune to Aurangabad goes from the same area where our friends reside, so picked them up from there only. However at 5:45 AM in the morning, the major landmark of that area, Amanora mall, was all extinguished and it took us a while to search for it before we figured out we were standing right in front of it . Finally we started from there at around 6:15 AM. From there, Aurangabad was around 225 KM.

Other benefit of leaving early is you get to see how sky turned from light blue to orange and then the beautiful sun rise from behind a tree or a hill.

Beautiful

I just love roads :)
Breakfast break was taken at around 8:00 AM with tea and homemade poha
Breakfast Hotel :)
In next 20 mins we were done and started again and stopped only after reaching Aurangabad at sharp 10:00 AM. Since we were on time and check-in time of hotel was 12:00 PM, we directly went for Bibi ka Maqbara. 
View from outside
Bibi ka maqbara is a clear-cut replica of Taj-mahal in Agra and is built by Ajamshah, son of Aurangzeb, in the memory of his mother Dilras Banu Begum. It is supposed to be built between 1651 and 1661 C.E (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/).

It too resembles the same structure as any other tomb like monuments in India with 4 pillars sort of structure in every direction, beautiful exquisite work in every wall and roof, a jali like structure in 3 directions other than entrance, a prayer hall apart from main building and garden surrounding the main architecture from every direction. Like Taj-mahal, it too has a pathway, with space for water and fountains in between, though it was nowhere to be seen, from main entrance up to the main building.
Work at the entrance

Another example of beautiful karigari

View of main building from entrance

Doesn't one get confused it with the Taj in this pic :)

More closer look

Another example

Stairs to the upper part

Prayer Hall

Aurangabad caves. Visible from Bibi ka maqbara

Surrounding garden


From main building to entrance

Dargah of Dilras Banu Begum

Interior

Jali work from inside
After spending good 1.5 hours there, we returned and started for the hotel. Though this time hotel was booked, but it took us some 20-30 mins to search it. Enquired with 2-3 people and at one point we were only be maximum 200 meters from hotel, when we did the mistake of asking one auto rickshaw driver and he misguide us to other direction. After taking a big round and asking with other people, we reached hotel and from there we can see that intersection and that auto still standing there. :)


Happy Ghumakkadi :)